Circumambulate Mount Kailash in the Year of the Horse

I grew up among the narrow alleys, whitewashed walls and colorful prayer flags that flutter against the deep blue sky. Over the years I have watched many pilgrims arrive from distant valleys. They circle our sacred mountains, walk along Barkhor Street and whisper prayers at Jokhang Temple. I knew that one day I would make my own journey around Mount Kailash, but I wanted it to be special.

A conversation in a teahouse

One crisp spring morning I met my neighbor, Awang, for tea. We sat on wooden benches in an old teahouse, cupping bowls of hot butter tea in our hands and watching sunlight spill across the floor. Awang is older than me and has completed the Mount Kailash kora twice. He told me that the coming year—the Year of the Horse—is an auspicious time for the pilgrimage. In the Tibetan zodiac, each of the 12 animals comes around once every twelve years. “The last Year of the Horse was in 2014, and the next will be in 2026,” he reminded me. According to our tradition, completing one circumambulation during the Horse Year is believed to equal thirteen circumambulations in a regular year.

Awang’s words struck a chord. I have always loved stories, and the Horse Year pilgrimage is wrapped in legend. Elders say this year marks the birth of Sakyamuni Buddha and that a mythical contest between the yogi Milarepa and a Bon practitioner to reach the summit of Kailash happened during a Horse Year. They tell how Milarepa rode on sunlight and reached the top first. Whether fact or folklore, these tales make the journey feel more meaningful. “If you want to go, this is the year to do it,” Awang smiled, lifting his bowl toward me.

Deciding to commit

That afternoon I walked home through Barkhor Street, past pilgrims spinning prayer wheels and merchants selling saffron and turquoise. My mind was full of Awang’s advice. The idea of walking around Mount Kailash next year did not feel like a distant dream anymore; it felt like a call. The pilgrimage takes three days at high altitude and passes through remote valleys. I knew I would need to train my body and mind, gather the right gear and find companions. Yet the thought of walking with friends, chanting mantras and touching the ground with my forehead in prostration stirred my heart.

I mentioned the idea to my close friend Drolma later that evening. She laughed with joy and said she had been thinking the same thing. “My cousin wants to go too,” she added. Soon our small group began to form. Word spread through our neighborhood, and others expressed interest in joining or helping us prepare.

Looking ahead

Our plan is to spend the next few months getting ready: morning runs around Potala Palace to build endurance, weekend hikes to nearby monasteries and long discussions over butter tea. As Losar, the Tibetan New Year, approaches we will clean our homes thoroughly and hang fresh prayer flags. The festive season will be a natural time to gather with neighbors, cook guthuk soup and set intentions for the journey. Then, when spring arrives and the passes open, we will set out toward Mount Kailash.

This is the first entry in a series of personal stories about preparing for a Year of the Horse pilgrimage. I hope to share not only travel advice but also the small moments of community and culture that make life in Tibet rich and vibrant. Thank you for joining me on this journey.